December 1990
Dear Fiends
and Family,
Greetings! We hope that this, our fifth
annual Christmas letter, finds you in good spirits (I will grant that it would
be difficult for a Christmas letter to be other than annual). We've had a good
year, and, as you may have deduced from the address change, our major activity
has been having a house built. About the only negative aspect of the year has
been the Middle East situation. We have two relatives, Eileen's younger brother
Paul, and her sister Kathleen's husband Patrick, who are in Saudi Arabia now;
they are always in our thoughts. On the brighter side, my job continues to be
very rewarding and challenging. Eileen is substitute-teaching again this year,
and is getting more frequent and more enjoyable assignments as her seniority
increases.
Last December we took a trip to coastal
Texas and the Rio Grande Valley, which is described in an attached article
which Eileen wrote for the local birding club newsletter. I got one life bird
(Whooping Crane) and one life mammal (Javelina),
while Eileen got 30 life birds and broke 500. During January and February, most
of our time was spent looking for a house. We soon figured out what we wanted
and could "afford" (a moderate-sized ranch) and also found out that
we would have to build to get it as the few existing ranches in Rochester are
mostly very small. We signed a contract to build at the end of February, and
then anxiously awaited completion, scheduled for early July. March and early
April were largely devoted to sorting, organizing, and packing much of what we
owned. Although our 700 square foot apartment was adequate when we first moved
there, we accumulated many things in four years and were badly cramped at the
end. We had intended to move out a year and a half ago, but decided to go to
Alaska instead.
We did squeeze in a couple of weekend trips
for special birds during the winter: Jackdaw in a Pennsylvania prison and Ross'
Gull near Baltimore. The Jackdaws were a remnant pair from the invasion about 5
years ago, and took a long, cold, soggy day to see not especially well. We
drove 7 hours one Friday evening and another hour in the fog Saturday morning,
after a cold few hours of camping, to look for the Ross' Gull. It was
uncooperative Saturday, appearing only once, and very briefly. So we drove
another 3 hours to my Mom's place in Virginia, visited for a few hours, slept
for a few hours, and tried again Sunday morning. This time we got to see the
bird extensively and very well.
Over Easter we visited some of my old
haunts in Virginia to photograph several wildflowers not found in upstate New
York, including Birdsfoot Violet and Fire Pink. We
greatly enjoyed leaving Rochester, still quite wintry, to visit the
(relatively) warm and flowery Blue Ridge Mountains. Of course we got to visit
my Mom again, for a bit more time than on the Ross' Gull trip. In May we
visited Pt. Pelee (Lake Erie, near Detroit), which
was not nearly as good for migrant birds as last year; and the Bruce Peninsula
(splitting Lake Huron from Georgian Bay), where we photographed several new
flowers such as Birdseye Primrose and Dwarf Lake Iris (a tiny deep purple iris
found only on the shores of Lake Huron).
At the end of May, we took a week and a
half trip to Big Bend National Park and several other locations in western
Texas; see Eileen's account of this trip, which is included with this letter.
Our primary target was Colima Warbler, a bird which,
in the U.S., is found only in the Chisos Mountains of
Big Bend. We were fortunate enought to find 17 Colimas; Eileen located a nest as well. Upon returning, we
took another trip to the Bruce Peninsula, and managed to photograph two very
rare orchids, Ram's-Head Lady's-Slipper and Calypso. Another weekend we canoed
in the Adirondacks and found a Three-toed woodpecker nest and some
"albino" Pink Lady's-Slipper orchids.
Our attention then returned to moving,
which we did in early July as planned. It took us about two weeks to get
settled into our new home, which has 3 bedrooms, 1.5 baths, a family room, contiguous
living and dining rooms with a cathedral ceiling, a contiguous dinette/kitchen,
and a first floor laundry. The basement is quite large (1660 square feet) and
currently is home to a ping-pong table, an exercise bike, and a rudimentary
darkroom area. We recently set up the darkroom area, and look forward to using
it and improving it in the near future. We've just finished off (drywall and
paint) the attached two-car garage, which is a blessing in winter. We have
about a third of an acre property, nowhere level, with about twenty 40-foot
linden and hickory trees in the back yard. The latter half of July and all of
August were devoted to putting in a lawn and landscaping. We're very happy with
our new home, and have been enjoing it immensely.
Late in the summer my Dad stopped in on his
way from Vermont to West Virginia; it was great to see him. Over Labor Day
weekend we went to Algonquin Park in Ontario to try for wolves again. We were
not as successful as last year, hearing wolves only once in the far distance.
But we did have the usual assortment of red foxes, moose, and beautiful hikes.
In September and October we took 6 or 7 weekend trips to the Adirondacks, with
highlights being many howling coyote packs, peregrine falcon, and gray jay. The
weather was rather uncooperative during the peak of the fall color, but the
trips were lots of fun. We photographed two late-blooming and uncommon
wildflowers, nodding ladies'-tresses (a delicate orchid) and fringed gentian.
The latter took four weekends to photograph as they only open up fully in
sunlight and the weather was so poor.
Since October, we've spent a lot of time
catching up on things. We visited my Mom and brother Chris for Thanksgiving and
spent much of the weekend sorting through and paring down our mineral
collections. It was fun looking at a number of specimens that I hadn't seen in
15 years. As Christmas draws near, we are planning a trip to Baja for the
holidays, stopping off in El Paso on the way to visit Eileen's folks. This is
in consolation for our planned excursion to the Canadian Rockies, Glacier, and
Yellowstone last summer; the closing date for the house fell right in the
middle of when we planned to be there. We hope to be able to make the trip next
summer instead.
We hope that all is well with you and that
you'll write us and tell us what you've been up to. Happy holidays!
A Christmas-time Odyssey in Texas
Eileen L. Keelan
This year Brian and I decided to spend
Christmas vacation somewhere warm and pleasant, with lots of birds to study and
photograph. We chose to explore coastal Texas and the Rio Grande Valley because
of the range of habitats represented, and because I had never been there. Brian
had visited the valley once, and had seen the southern coast, but nothing
farther north than Corpus Cristi. Our two main
"target" species were whooping crane and javelina
(or collared peccary), a mammal that resembles a wild pig, though they are
unrelated.
Day 1: We left Rochester on 23 December with gray
skies, snow on the ground, and temperatures close to zero. We arrived in
Houston with sunny skies, snow on the ground, and temperatures close to zero!
Spirits not dampened, we gathered our luggage, picked up the rental car and
headed north for the Big Thicket. A stop at a grocery store along the way
yielded the supplies needed for camping, though it was too cold that first
night to sleep in a tent. Instead, we stayed at a motel in Woodville after
enjoying a delicious meal at El Burrito, a Mexican restaurant in Cleveland,
Texas.
Day 2: Too excited by the adventures ahead to eat a
real breakfast, we munched doughnuts in the car while heading for the visitor center at Big Thicket.
This preserve is a large, wooded area in Southeast Texas about two hours
northeast of Houston. It is often referred to as a "biological
crossroads" because of the large number of diverse plant communities it
comprises. Here are found
representatives, both plant and animal, of eastern hardwood
forests, southern wetlands, and arid southwestern habitats.
On the road to the visitor center we saw
and heard several brown-headed nuthatches, a life bird for me and what turned
out to be the first of 30 lifers during this fascinating week (Brian got one -
- whooping crane). At the center we talked to the ranger and collected several
informative pamphlets and maps, then set off along the Kirby Nature Trail, a
1.7 mile loop through several Big Thicket communities: slope forest (comprised
of American beech, magnolia, and loblolly pine); baygall
(a very wet area named for sweetbay and gallberry holly); cypress sloughs (with huge, old trees
dripping with Spanish moss, and gnarly "knees" rising from the
roots); and oak forest (featuring swamp chestnut oak). One interesting plant
that grew in patches of damp soil was cane, a relative of bamboo (it has been
hypothesized that Bachman's warbler was a cane specialist, analogous to bamboo
specialists in Asia). There were many vines, including rattan, a member of the
palm family, from which wicker-like furniture can be made.
After this delightful hike, we headed for a
different unit of the Big Thicket and walked along the Sundew Trail. This area
has, among other plants, carnivorous pitcher plants and sundews, both species
different from the ones which may be found locally. The pine forests here
contained three species: lobolly, longleaf, and
shortleaf; in such habitat, the two other specialties of the region, Bachman's
sparrow and red-cockaded woodpecker, may be found.
In the afternoon, we drove to Beaumont,
checking briefly for fish crows, at the western edge of their range. The drive
through Cameron Parish, Louisiana (a life state) was very enjoyable and yielded
good views of many shorebirds, herons, and nutria, an introduced mammal similar
to beaver, which is fairly destructive to native habitat.
We returned to Texas in the evening with
the intention of camping at Sea Rim State Park, along the Gulf coast.
Temperatures were still very low and there was a stiff wind blowing in off the
water making it seem even colder. Our camp stove, despite much coaxing and a
few threats, refused to work, though it had worked well enough at home to set
off the smoke alarm. This exigency required backtracking to Port Arthur and
spending another night in a motel.
Day 3: We rose very early and skipped breakfast in
order to be at Sabine Pass by dawn. This proved to be an excellent location for
photography. We got very good looks at king rail, seaside sparrow, and some
mercifully vociferous short-billed dowitchers --
three more lifers.
(Historical
Note: During the Civil War, the Confederate Army guarded the upper Texas coast
against Union invasion. At Sabine Pass,
on 8 September 1863, Lt.Dick Dowling and 46
Confederate soldiers defeated four Union warships and approximately 1200 men.
The Dick Dowling Days festival is held each year on Labor Day Weekend to
commemorate the battle, which must be one of the all-time great underdog
victories in history.)
We returned to Sea Rim for our first view
of it in daylight. It is a state park consisting of 15,109 acres of Gulf coast
beach and marshland, ten miles west of Sabine Pass. Due to a shortage of time,
we only took a quick hike (gallop might be a more appropriate term) along the Gambusia Trail, a 0.7 mile loop. This trail, which takes
its name from the mosquito fish genus, is a board walk through a marshy area,
from which scads of white-faced ibis, herons and marshland sparrows were
visible.
We then headed to Anahuac National Wildlife
Refuge (NWR), eating peanut butter sandwiches for lunch en route. Highlights of this foray were two of what
must have been the world's largest raccoons, an armadillo, and a most beautiful
Krider's red-tailed hawk. The hawk sat on a low
tree-branch and then a fence post at close range, allowing us long looks and
pleasing photographs.
We drove south to High Island, out the
Bolivar Peninsula, took a ferry to Galveston, and got another motel. The weather, though sunny, was still too cold/windy for camping, and our recalcitrant stove was still
failing to earn its keep on this purported camping trip. The restaurant we
chose for Christmas dinner, one of only two open on the island, could only have
been classified as pathetic. Another birder's Christmas (sigh).
Day 4: We were up early to bird Galveston Island.
The west end, especially the area designated by local birders as Rail Road, was
marvelous for seeing and photographing birds. Tricolored
herons flushed from the side of the road every few yards and we obtained good
photos of a little blue heron and long-billed curlews. Clapper rail was a life
bird for me, and I got to see and photograph several very well. We made a quick
stop for gas and a bite to eat. The friendly store owner went out to his car
and got a pair of pliers with which Brian finally managed to fix the stove. The
temperature was at last beginning to get warm enough to make a styrofoam cooler necessary to keep
the drinks and few perishable items cold.
At Indian Beach, just south of Jamaica
Beach, we looked for Sprague's pipit without success, although a Sedge Wren
made an appearance; this is one of the few native grassland areas remaining on
the island. Following Lane's guide, we proceeded towards Freeport, where he
said Sprague's pipits could be found on the level slopes. Wondering if Lane did
not consider the term "level slopes" to be somewhat contradictory, we
arrived at the location and found a sign stating: "Stay on the road. Do
not drive on the levee slopes." Aha! It was a typo! That mystery solved,
we drove down the dike, checking the levee slopes for the pipits. None were
found, leading us to speculate that "Sprague's pipit" had also been a
typo. At least there were plenty of mottled ducks.
We drove for the rest of the afternoon
and camped that evening at Goose Island State Recreation Area. The habitats of
this area include shallow bays, mudflats, marshes, meadows, live oak groves,
and dense shrub thickets, making it an excellent area to observe a variety of
birds. Our campsite was a beautiful and secluded. We ate dinner to the tune of
brown thrashers twanging everywhere, and awoke in our tent during the night to
hear a pair of great horned owls duetting.
Day 5: After waking at 0600 and enjoying our usual
camping breakfast of oatmeal and hot chocolate, we drove to Tivoli. Careful
examination of the far side of a plowed field revealed four greater prairie
chickens just where Lane said they should be. We put the scope on them and for
several minutes watched them engage in their courtship display.
From Tivoli, our next stop was Aransas NWR.
This 54,829 acre refuge is located on the Blackjack Peninsula, named for its
blackjack oaks. It is composed of deep sandy soil, covered by grasslands, live
oaks, and redbay thickets, surrounded by tidal marshes, and
broken by long narrow ponds. Aransas is most famous for containining
virtually the entire wintering grounds of the endangered whooping crane. Near
the turn of the century, there were only 14 individuals left, but the
population in the wild is now over a hundred and there are a similar number in
captivity. Although this species has been cross-fostered in sandhill
crane nests in Idaho, this project has been discontinued because the birds
which have lived to adulthood are not breeding successfully.
From the observation tower along the refuge
loop, we were able to see the a family of whooping
cranes at great distance. Even in the scope they were rather small but clearly
whooping cranes and very beautiful. From here we also saw the first of many fox
squirrels. We hiked a number of the trails along the loop road in hopes of seeing
javelinas, and were at last successful on the Big
Tree Walking Trail. This 1.0 mile loop passes through some gorgeous live oaks,
many of which live up to the trail's name. We saw many fox squirrels in the
oaks, feral hogs on the beach, and a group of about 15 javelinas
at the edge of the woods. Javelinas are not directly
related to true pigs, though similar in appearance and habits. They stand up to
22 inches high at the shoulder and weigh up to 65 pounds, have coarse, bristly,
black and white hair, and short, straight tusks. We enjoyed seeing this life
mammal forage through the woods and hearing their soft grunts as they passed by
us.
(Another historical note: The pirate Jean
Lafitte is reputed to have disbanded his crew in the area of Aransas and buried
"enough treasure in those woods to ransom a nation." We didn't find
it.)
Birding and photographing on the east side
of the Rockport peninsula in the afternoon was lots of fun. Particularly
impressive were a compact raft of nearly a thousand redheads, and a strung-out
flock of 125 marbled godwits. On the way back to camp we visited the champion
(world's largest) Virginia Live Oak, on Goose Island. The tree is spectacular
with huge, spreading branches; it is over 1000 years old and surrounded by many
of its offspring, which are good-sized trees themselves. Back at the camp, a
barred owl hooted as we bedded down for the night.
Day 6: We slept a bit later than usual today, ate
our customary breakfast, and broke camp. Our morning's activity was taking a
4-hour tour of the inland waterway on a boat called the "Wharf Cat",
the objective being closer views of whooping cranes. We were fortunate enough
to see about 20 of the cranes in family groups that included the adult pair and
one young bird. Each family defends a large feeding area from other crane
families, and the young never stray far from the adults. The boat trip also
yielded excellent views of two white-tailed hawks, both vultures, both
pelicans, and roseate spoonbills.
After getting off the boat, we drove
directly to Mustang Island with a brief stop for lunch and to mail off rolls of
film to be developed. Notable encounters on the island were a black-bellied
whistling duck (rare in winter) in a pond by the side of the road, and a lesser
black-backed gull on the beach. Padre Island was lovely at sunset with its
beautiful dunes. After dark, a three hour drive brought us to far southern
Texas; our supper at a Bonanza restaurant in Kingsville was excellent. Accomodations were at a dubious motel in Harlingen, as
there were no nearby camping areas.
Day 7: We headed for Laguna Atascosa first thing
this morning. At the visitor center, I got to see another life bird,
golden-fronted woodpecker; she was only the first of many that day. There was
an impressive concentration of nearly 50 mockingbirds in one small
group of trees at the start of the Paisano Trail. We
hiked this flat, pleasant path, which passes through mesquite and several
Mexican species of trees, and saw chachalacas and
both long-billed and curve-billed thrashers. There were olive sparrows and
green jays calling but they did not afford good looks.
Driving along the Bayside Tour, we caught
sight of a white phase reddish egret dancing and canopy-feeding along the
water's edge. Brian stalked it for nearly half a mile to obtain photos, at
times having to jog to keep up with it!
A bird that was nearly dismissed as a female cardinal, upon closer
inspection proved to be a pyrrhuloxia.
From Laguna Atascosa we drove to the dump
at Brownsville to look for Chihuahan ravens and
Mexican crows. The ravens were easily
picked out from among the crowds of laughing gulls, and an obliging breeze
ruffled their feathers so that the distinguishing white on their necks showed.
Finding the Mexican crows took a little longer, and involved dodging bulldozers
in the busy dump.
We then proceeded to Sabal
Palm Sanctuary to look for the golden-crowned warbler, a rare Mexican vagrant.
Though it had been seen and heard only 15 minutes before our arrival. it had departed into the thick underbrush, and nobody could
relocate it. However, we did get to observe a buff-bellied hummingbird (rare in
winter) for several minutes; this was my 500th life bird! (It had been #600 for
Brian four years ago.) Immediately afterward a group of green jays passed
though -- what an outrageous plumage!
We arrived at Santa Ana NWR at dusk and
took a quick hike around boardwalk A, admiring the very impressive oak trees
and their trailing fringes of Spanish moss. Our campsite was at Bentsen-Rio
Grande State Park, a beautiful area noted for its pauraques.
Like Santa Ana, the plant and animal communities here represent a northern
extension of the Mexican sub-tropical biota. The weather was beautiful, and a
good night's sleep followed.
Day 8: We were up at 0600 and ate breakfast in the
car on the way back to Santa Ana. This refuge was established in 1943 to
protect and preserve a 2,080 acre remnant of a rapidly
vanishing native riparian woodland. We spent the morning hiking here, covering
about six miles. We photographed white-tipped doves, fox squirrels, green jays,
chachalacas and tufted titmouse (black-crested morph)
at Photo Blind B. Great kiskadees were evrywhere, calling stridently. At Photo Blind A, we were
pleased to see a green kingfisher and two least grebes. Cattail Lake harbored
two stunning Altamira Orioles.
We left Santa Ana at about 1:15 pm and
drove to the Santa Margarita Ranch, again eating peanut butter sandwiches in
the car. At the ranch brown jays called raucously and two javelinas
ran across the road.
After quickly checking Salineno
and Chapena, we hiked the entire area below the
Falcon Dam spillway. A ferruginous pygmy-owl had been located by some other
birders and they kept an eye on the bird until we could see it too, which was
much appreciated. Later, I then found a black-headed oriole at the exact same
spot where Brian had found a nest several years ago! And finally, after hearing
but only glimpsing olive sparrows almost everywhere since Laguna Atascosa, one
hopped out of the brush and foraged for a minute right in the path ahead of us!
On the way back, Brian heard the rattle of a ringed kingfisher along the river
and caught a quick glimpse of it, as well as a peregrine falcon. We took the
wrong fork of the road on our way out, which added to the length of our hike,
but were rewarded by our only good views of common pauraques.
We were pretty tired after 10 miles of
hiking, and it was still two hours back to camp. Pizza in Rio Grande City on
the way was a help, but it still felt great to crawl into our sleeping bags.
Day 9: We were up at 0600 and began breaking camp.
A ringed kingfisher rattle prompted a mad dash to the river, which paid off
nicely, with great looks in both binoculars and the telescope. We finished the
packing and started the long drive back toward Houston, stopping at the Sabal Palm sanctuary to miss the golden-crowned warbler
again. It was scared back into the underbrush by thoughtless birders, who
illegally left the trails and trampled the native vegetation, which was already
stressed by the frosts. In the afternoon we saw another white-tailed hawk and
two Harris's hawks south of Kingsville; a quick drive through the King Ranch yielded
several curved-billed thrashers, flocks of lark buntings, and many deer. We
spent that night in Victoria and had another delicious Mexican meal, this time
at a place called the Siesta Restaurant.
Day 10: We arrived back in Houston this morning,
driving past a field containing 10,000 snow geese! Perusal with the scope
revealed that about 10% of them were blue geese and there were also about 100
white-fronted geese (the orange-billed Canadian subspecies, as expected). So
this was where all the geese were!
Once safely at the airport and waiting to board the plane, we
decided that the most difficult thing to locate on this entire birding trip was
the place to return the rental car. We imagined what it would be like to spend
the rest of our lives circling Houston in a rented vehicle. Even the
golden-crowned warbler wasn't as bad -- at least we had some idea where it
was!
The flight to Rochester was uneventful
except for one thing. When picking up our things at the baggage claim area, we
discovered that one piece of luggage had been damaged and our little camp stove
-- the one that had caused us so much trouble earlier in the trip by refusing
to work, the one that we had to borrow tools for several times to try to fix,
the one that forced us to face the prospect of cold camping and cold meals, the
very one that we began asking each other why we'd ever bothered to haul along
with us in the first place, but the one that finally was fixed and worked for
the rest of the trip -- was gone. We hope it ended up someplace warm.
Travels
in the Trans-Pecos
Eileen L. Keelan
When Brian and I decided that a summer trip
was in order, we planned it with several objectives in mind: we wanted to be able to include our families
on a trip all of us would enjoy; we hoped for good weather; and it would be
nice if we could add a new bird or two.
To meet those ends, we decided to visit Big Bend National Park in
Texas. Brian's mom, who is a geologist by
training, and who lives in Virginia, was thrilled at the prospect of studying
the park's geology. I had visited the
park previously with my mom and dad, who live in Texas, and all three of us
looked forward to returning. Brian is
always happy to explore a new area. And
we had the highly probable chance of finding Colima
warblers, a new bird for all of us and a "park specialty". In fact, the Chisos
Mountains, the only mountain range located entirely within a national park, is
also the only location in the United States where this Mexican warbler can be
found.
Day One: On Friday, 25 May 1990, Brian and I finished
the last minute packing for our long-awaited trip to Texas. After a quick lunch of pizza, our friend and
neighbor, Sharon, drove us to the airport.
We managed to wrestle our luggage up to the ticket counter and check in,
then work our through the construction to our gate. Though our final destination was El Paso, we
did not have the most direct route:
first, we flew southeast to Newark, New Jersey, then west to
Denver. Here, we joined Brian's mom, Mary,
who had flown in from Washington, D.C., and continued on to El Paso together.
We had been planning this trip since
January. The only part of the plans that
we hadn't shared with Brian's mom was that we would meet her in Denver. As far as she knew, we would all meet in El
Paso., We kept
this little secret for five months and looked forward to surprising Mary in
Denver. Unfortunately, Mary arrived at
the gate first and when she checked in, the ticket agent said, "Keelan,
party of three." "No,"
Mary said, "I'm traveling alone."
"No, you're not," the agent replied. "Yes, I am!" said Brian's mom. "Well, you'll be sitting with two other
people who have the same name as you."
By this time, both of them were beginning to catch on and when we
trotted up Brian's mother looked pleased but hardly surprised. We did have a nice flight to El Paso,
enjoying the sun setting in the mountains as we descended.
We were met at the ariport
by my folks and my nephew Corey and the six of us went to a Mexican restaurant
for a delicious late supper.
Day Two: We were up early and enjoyed a breakfast of
orange juice and homemade sweet rolls, then packed the station wagon for our
five-day trip to Big Bend National Park.
The park is located about five hours drive southeast of El Paso, where
the Rio Grande makes the big bend to the north that gives the park its
name. We (Brian's mom, my mom and dad,
Brian, and me) headed out on Interstate 10 through the Davis Mountains, south
to Alpine and Marathon. Because we were
enjoying the scenery and birds, we took our time driving, stopping several
times to look at Cassin's sparrows and kingbirds, curve billed
thrashers and lark sparrows. At one stop
we put a beautiful Swainson's hawk in the telescope
and had a flock of scaled quail at another.
One stop was unplanned and caused by a flat
tire. When we got out to
look at it we discovered a three-inch length of thorny branch stuck in
it; Texas is probably the only place where you can run over a plant and
puncture your tire.
While waiting for the tire to be repaired,
in the town of Fort Davis, Brian and I went for a walk. The late May weather was hot and dry, a
welcome change from the damp spring in Rochester, though it meant that very
little exertion brought on a big thirst.
(The fellow at the garage asked where we were from and when we told him
El Paso, he said, "Whew! It sure is
hot there!") We enjoyed a Say's phoebe and a yellow-billed cuckoo that seemed out of
place. We were also treated to the unusual phenomenon of a faint but complete
circular 'rainbow' around the sun.
Tire repaired and lunch eaten we continued
on our way. Quite a few cacti,
specifically cholla, were in bloom, providing a
colorful contrast with the desert floor.
We drove through the town of Marathon and
headed south to the Persimmon Gap entrance to the park. While we were enjoying the scenery all along
the way, we had to agree that our first view of Green Gulch on our way into the
Chisos Basin, was in a class
by itself. The sun was beginning to set and the mountains were silhouetted against
the darkening sky, and tinged with red around their edges. We couldn't resist the impulse to take
several photographs.
It was nearly nine pm by the time we
reached the lodge. We pulled into the
parking lot tired and hungry only to discover that we were too late for dinner
and almost too late to check in! The
lobby, we discovered, closed for the night at nine c'clock. Keys
were obtained, however, and the moms and dad retired to their rooms while Brian
and I borrowed the car for a mammal run.
We drove the length of the road to Rio Grande Village and were rewarded
with sightings of muledeer, and jackrabbits. On our way back to the lodge, we drove therough the Chisos Basin
campground and saw three javelinas by the side of the
road. This hour-long jaunt at the end of a very
full day finished us off and we were only too happy to fall into bed.
Day
Three: We woke early to the sound of barnswallows flitting around outside our doors and to the
sight of Casa Grande, a majestic rock formation rising up from the basin,
directly behing the lodge.
After breakfast in the lodge restaurant, we
piled into the car and headed for Santa Elena Canyon, via Castolon. Our first stop was at the old Sam Nail
ranch. In 1916, Sam and his younger
brother, Jim, built an adobe house here, dug a well, and put in a garden. They lived here until 1918 when Sam got
married. Today, most of the house and
garden have been reclaimed by vegetation, but the water provided by the well they
dug still supports some of the exotic trees attracted to it when Sam still
lived there. The ranch is reached by a
short path from the main road and there we enjoyed a welcome bit of shade and a summer
tanager, yellow breasted chat, and Bell's vireo. Our next stop was at Cerro Castellan, where
we photographed and explored
a peak that was once an active volcano. The road passes just north of the peak and we
had only to get out of the car to find ourselves in the middle of a bed of tuff
-- volcanic ash compacted into rock. We continuted toward Castolon,
stopping to bird along the river, and were excited to hear a painted bunting in
the dense bushes. It took us quite a
while to locate it and Brian was the only one to see it really well, but we all
enjoyed the view we had -- a painted bunting is a very exciting bird!
By the time we reached Castolon,
our next stop, we were more than ready for cold drinks. We stocked up on them there in the little
store that still has the feel of an old frontier trading post about it. But it wasn't long before we were back on
the road and headed for Santa Elena Canyon with a stop first at Cottonwood
Campground which yielded long views of vermilion flycatchers (wow!) and hooded
orioles.
We had already seen the canyon once that
day, a distant view from Sotol Vista. Although this point on the Castolon Road is fourteen airline miles away from it , there is no mistaking the distinctive "hole"
it cuts into the mountains. Our next
view of it was from the Santa Elena Canyon Overlook and it is an awesome
view. The walls reach 1500 feet above the floor
of the desert. There is a nature trail
which takes you to the interior of the canyon but it was closed when we were
there due to a washout.
We returned to the lodge by way of Maverick
Road -- "road" being a term used very loosely to describe what we
drove over -- with a brief stop at Study Butte just outside the park for cold
drinks and a browse through the rock shop.
Dinner and bed were both very welcome at the end of another long day.
Day
Four: Another barn swallow wake-up call heralded the day. After breakfast, we pointed the car in the
direction of Rio Grande Village -- a campground, gas station, and small camp
store -- where we parked and got out to hike the Nature Trail. It was in the village that we got our first
views of roadrunners but once we spotted one we kept seeing them everywhere --
under the car, trotting out of the bushes...
The temperature was 108 at this lower
elevation and the air was very humid so close to the river. Brian noted a hawk soaring overhead that
looked remarkabley like a gray hawk. After consulting the geographic guide he was
pleased to realize it was a gray hawk, a bird he had only seen twice before. We
also saw a superb painted bunting, that posed very
cooperatively on the top of a mesqite bush several
times. One interesting aspect of the
trail were the grinding stones -- holes pounded into
the rocks by the Native Americans who once lived here and used for grinding
meal. There were numerous holes along
the trail, several inches deep, of varying diameters and quite smooth. Further along we stopped to look at a horned
lizard basking in the sun.
From Rio Grande Village we drove to the Boquillas Canyon Overlook.
No one was there except a man selling minerals. The sun was blazing and the river meandered
slowly across the desert. It was hard to
believe that that lazy-looking river was responsible for carving out the mangificent Boquillas Canyon.
After leaving here, we tried driving south
on Glenn Spring Road, but it proved to be too rough and we did not get very
far. So we returned to the main road and drove on to Dugout Wells, now a picnic
site but once known as the "cultural center of the Chisos"
because one of the few schoolhouses in the Big Bend country in the early part
of the century was located there. It is
called dugout because the first home built there was a dugout shelter. We hiked the self-guiding nature trail and
grouped everyone together for a photograph before moving on.
Nest we visited Painted Gap, where we
photographed a beautiful hedgehog cactus in full bloom, its brilliant magenta
flowers a contrast to the surrounding vegetation; Croton Springs; and
Government Springs, the latter recommended in the guide book as a likely place
to view wildlife. The spring was nearly
dry though and we saw no mammals. We did
get to see, with a bit of work, a varied bunting, doing its best to remain out
of sight in the leafy branches.
We returned to the lodge through Green
Gulch, always a pleasure to see again, and enjoyed dinner at the restaurant,
then fell into bed, intent on a good night's sleep; tomorrow, Brian and I
planned to hike to Boot Springs.
Day
Five: For a change, we woke up before
the swallows. Brian and I ate a
breakfast of leftovers and filled our daypack with bottles of gatorade and water, and a lunch to
eat along the way. We set out from the
lodge shortly after four am, about two hours before dawn. We had two reasons for this early start. One reason was that we had calculated that
the hike would take us approximately nine - ten hours. Since one purpose of the trip was to spend
time with our families, we wanted to return as early in the afternoon as we
could. (Our folks would not be going the
Boot Springs with us. Instead, they
would sleep a little later, have a more leisurely breakfast, and hike the Lost
Mine Trail, which runs along the slope below Casa Grande and affords one of the
best views in the park.) The other
reason was that we hoped to get through as much of the uphill portion of the hike as we could
before the sun came up and made it more difficult.
After a slight difficulty in finding the
trail head in the dark, we were under way, along the Laguna Meadow Trail, which
the guide book describes as a "strenuous day hike." We reached the meadow by dawn, without any
problems, and were greeted by rufous-crowned sparrows
and black-chinned sparrows, whose bouncing-ball song is one of the most
delightful of all the songbirds. From
the meadow, an ancient marshy area that used to be a camping area for Indians,
we took the Colima cutoff to Boot Spring and it
wasn't long before Brian heard the first Colima
warbler. By the time we were through we
had heard seventeen of the warblers and had had very good looks at several of
them. We even saw a nest and the resident warbler disappear inside it. We rested for a few minutes at the spring and
enticed a tufted titmouse, black-crested morph, to land on my hand with a few
cookie crumbs. He returned several
times, though he was too shy to take any crumbs. We also enjoyed the antics of a rock squirrel
and listened to the
drumming of an acorn woodpecker -- not that we had much choice; he chose the
metal side of the ranger cabin to pound on!
We hiked on past the springs in order to
enjoy the view of Arizona cypress and Douglas fir. In the tops of these we could hear several
Cordilleran flycatchers and though we kept trying we never got to see one. However, we had ample opportunity to learn
that call!
We did not retrace our steps on the way
back down but instead took the Pinnacles Trail, also described in the guide
book as a "strenuous day hike".
It is slightly shorter than the Laguna Meadow Trail but is also steeper
which is why we chose to take it on the way back instead of climbing up it. By now the sun was high and there was little
shade but the views were beautiful. And
though there were fewer birds on the return trip we did see many white-throated
swifts swooping around near the cliffs.
We reached the lodge around two in the
afternoon, hungry and a bit foot-sore.
The trails we had hiked we were wide, clearly marked, and very pleasant,
but they were also hard-packed and, in some cases, rocky. Since our total distance for the hike was
about 11 miles, were we glad to sit down and enjoy some lunch.
At about this time, we discovered we were
having some troubles with the car battery and rather than risk getting stranded
in the desert decided to take it to the garage at Study Butte and see if they
could help. They recommended we take it
to Terlingua and though they could do nothing for it
either, we did enjoy our trip to the town.
From 1900 to 1940, about thirty mines in the district produced more than
one hundred thousand flasks of quicksilver.
The mines closed after World War II and today Terlingua
is a ghost town.
As we drove back through Green Gulch on our
return to the lodge, we stopped at the one agave that
was in bloom on the theory that it ought to attract hummingbirds, none of which
we had seen yet. We parked on the side
of the road, got out and grouped expectantly in front of the agave -- and sure enough, the hummingbirds started flocking
in! First to arrive was a Lucifer
hummingbird and we had barely recovered from that excitement before it was
joined by another. And another! We passed around the binoculars and set up
the telescope on it, looked it up in the Geographic guide, and congratulated
each other (it was new for all of us except Brian who had seen a female in
Arizona) and in the midst of all this activity in flew a black-chinned
hummingbird. We certainly enjoyed the
excellent opportunity we had to observe the little birds feeding; when we
finally left, after nearly an hour of watching, the birds were still flitting
around the agave.
Day Six: Today was to be our last day in Big Bend and
we began it with a hike on the Window Trail.
It is described as being of "medium difficulty, 5.2 miles round
trip." We started early and had
lovely views of the mountains and of the "window" itself in the
morning light. Along the trail we saw a
small herd of javelinas grunting softly and nosing through
the brush. We also heard more
black-chinned sparrows and saw a blue grosbeak at just the right angle for the light
to show off the bright blue color. In
the interest of time, we did not take the entire loop but returned to
the lodge via a cutoff through the campground.
We packed the car and headed back to El Paso, driving through Study
Butte, then Alpine, and the Davis Mountains, making as few stops as possible so
as to reduce the strain on the car battery when restarting. The first thing we did in El Paso was go
directly to the dealership for a new battery. Then it was home to freshen up
and to collect my sister Kathleen and her son, Corey, so we could all go out to
dinner together. These additional passengers
gave us a new basis for comparison:
looking back, the car didn't seem to have been quite so crowded in Big
Bend as it was now! At least we weren't
going nearly as far. The meal we enjoyed
at Forti's Mexican Reatuarant
was a fitting end to a very happy day.
Day
Seven: We woke this morning to the sound, not of barn swallows,
but of white-winged doves cooing in the back yard. Brian's mom returned to Charlottesville today.
Brian and I spent the morning relaxing and then joined Kathleen for
lunch at Leo's Mexican Restaurant. She
returned to work and we went back home for a swim in the pool and to photograph
the white-winged and Inca doves in the backyard. It was a pleasant, calm day
, topped off by the arrival of Kathleen's fiance,
Patrick, from Nurnburg, Germany where he was stationed
with the Second Armored Cavalry.
Day
Eight: The day begain
with another trip to the airport, this time to take Mom and Dad there for their
flight to California where they would meet my brother Paul. He too was flying into California only his
flight originated in Korea. He had just
completed a tour of duty there with the 501st Aviation Regiment and was looking
forward to a few days relaxation in California before going on to his new
assignment at Fort Bliss, with the Third Armored Cavalry.
After seeing Mom and Dad off, Brian and I
drove to Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in New Mexico about 4
hours' drive from El Paso. This refuge
is well-known for its wintering sanhill cranes and
geese, as well as the whooping cranes from the Gray's Lake population. We had the loop drive virtually to
ourselves. Unfortunately, there weren't
many birds there either! We did enjoy
the drive however, and did see large flocks of olivaceous
cormorants, which was a new bird for me.
We arrived home just in time to get cleaned
up and go out to dinner. We were looking
forward to a meal at Rubio's, a Mexican restaurant which Brian has heard a lot
about from me. With the help of a map and
Patrick's directions, we got only slightly lost. The food, as promised, was delicious, and the
service, as always, was excellent. From
Rubio's we went to Fort Bliss, to see Kathleen in a performance of South
Pacific, in the theatre there. We joined
Patrick when we arrived and then ran into my brother Robert and his wife Mahrla. Rob was the
lighting director for the play and also had a small speaking part. Both he and Kathleen were superb! After the play, Robert, Mahrla,
Brian and I stopped to have a cup of coffee or glass of lemonade and chat. It was good to see them, especially as we
didn't have much chance to visit on this trip.
Day
Nine: Brian and I had hoped to interest
Kathleen and Patrick in joining us on our day-trip to the Guadalupe Mountains
today, but Kathleen had another performance of South Pacific that night and was
afraid she might not make it back in time.
So the two of us headed
out for Guadalupe Mountains National Park about two hours east of El Paso. Our first view of the mountains was of El
Capitan; this peak is said to be the most photographed spot in Texas! We did our best to make this statement true,
than continued on to McKittrick Canyon. Since we only had a day to spend in the park,
we had chosen this canyon because it is the most accessable
one with good habitat. By the way, the
Guadalupe Mountains are of the same formation as Carlsbad Caverns in New
Mexico, a drive of about an hour or so away.
We arrived just as a park ranger was about
to start off on a scheduled guided walk and we decided to join him. There were only two or three other hikers in
the group which made it an ideal size.
The ranger was very knowledgeable about the plants, animals, and birds
of the park and quite friendly so we enjoyed the hike immensely. There were plumbeous
solitary vireos on nests everywhere, and we heard many singing Grace's
warblers, though we never saw one. We
continued along the trail even after the guided portion ended, until we
arrived at the area called "the grotto." Here, we saw Venus maidenhair fern, which is
very rare in the East, and Chapline's columbine, a
beautiful yellow flower with very long spurs, which is found nowhere except in
the Guadalupes.
We spent a while here, photographing the plants and getting good looks
at a blue-throated humminigbird. We also got to see well a Cordilleran flycatcher,
at last.
Our only problem on this trip was that we
had forgotton to bring sunscreen, a mistake of potentially disastrous
consequences. At least we had remembered
to dress properly for the sun and so the burn was limited.
We arrived home in the early evening and
began to pack for our flight back to Rochester tomorrow.
Day Ten: Today was our last morning of waking up to
white-winged doves. We finished the
packing, loaded the car and set out for the airport. We stopped first, however, at Rubio's for a
"farewell breakfast": Robert,
Kathleen, Patrick, Brian, and me. It was
delicious, as usual; Rubio's, I am convinced, makes the finest French toast in
the country.
Once at our departure gate, it was time to
really say good-bye, which is never easy.
Our flight to Rochester was uneventful and it wasn't long before we were
back to our routine. But we have the
photographs and memories of a wonderful trip to look back on and we look
forward to more such trips in the future.